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The 1190 ADV (2013) clutch is a hydraulic-operated system with a master cylinder, fluid reservoir and lever mounted at the handlebar and made by Magura, and with a slave/receiver cylinder located at the left side of the engine.

Customization of the Clutch Lever:

The distance of the OEM clutch lever to the handlebar can be adjusted to fit the individual hand size by turning a small, silver-colored wheel at the lever. The wheel has four notches which click into position and hold it in the chosen position. To turn the wheel one full turn, relieve the pressure of the lever by pushing it against the handguard and then click the wheel four notches in the desired direction.

The optional, orange/black KTM PowerParts (“PP”) accessory lever can be adjusted in length of the lever as well as in distance to the handlebar. To adjust the length, a small screw has to be opened; it is advisable to use a small amount of locking fluid such as Loctite on the thread of the screw. The distance between lever and handlebar is adjusted by turning an orange-colored wheel between marked positions 1 (close) – 6 (wide).

To avoid constant pressure on the clutch, which may cause excessive wear, malfunction and failure, the tip of the lever may not touch the handguard when fully released. If the fully released lever does touch the inside of the handguard, the handguard may have been poorly adjusted. For correction, if required, loosen the two screws of the right-side mounting of the handguard, push the flexible handguard lightly to the left / outside, without exerting force, thus creating a slightly wider arc of the handguard, and securely re-tighten the screws.

Moreover ensure that the inner side of the lever does not touch the set of switches when fully engaged. The lever should be stopped only by touching the rubber of the left handle. If the inside of the lever touches the switch console when fully depressed, loosen the screw holding the lever set to the handlebar and carefully move the lever set horizontally a very short distance to the left or right until the lever is operating freely without contact to the switch console, then securely re-tighten the screw.

Known issues:

Insufficient separation:

A known issue of some 2013 models is an apparently insufficient clutch separation. Effects range from somewhat harder operation of the gear shift foot lever to nearly “stuck” gears and a somewhat brutal “clonk” noise when engaging first gear.

Potential cause and solution:

The issue seems to be caused by setting the OEM lever to less than 6 klicks / 1,5 turns of the adjustment wheel or to a setting lower than 3 or 4 of the PP accessory lever. Those riders who have experience with cable-operated clutch systems may as an initial reaction feel tempted to increase the tension of the – non-existent- clutch cable. The issue apparently can be solved with immediately noticeable effect by increasing the setting of the lever to a larger handsize. However, setting the lever to a small handsize may not have an immediate adverse effect, but may only cause the issue to develop and to worsen over a significant period of several hours of riding. The technical reason seems to be that the volume of hydraulic fluid moved by the clutch lever differs between the different settings. The pictures show the PP accessory lever in three situations:
(to be completed by adding pictures)
The engine oil temperature appears not to have any influence on this issue.

Aftermarket / third party vendor accessories:

With the previous LC8 950/990 Adventure, the OEM clutch slave cylinder has been a cause of reliability concerns. Non-KTM clutch slave cylinders for the LC8 950/990 are available on the aftermarket, e.g. from Sigutech UG in Germany[1] , which are said to be more reliable due to a modified construction. Unconfirmed reports indicate that the 1190 ADV clutch slave cylinder is identical to the one used for late LC8 990 models, thus a modification by using an improved aftermarket cylinder may be possible for the 1190 ADV as well.


Smooth clutch operation is supported by a tiny oil nozzle in the clutch assembly. If the nozzle is partly or fully clogged by dirt, the operation of the clutch may be adversely affected. The nozzle is accessible behind a screw near the front sprocket and can be removed with a special tool for cleaning. It appears to be advisable to ensure that the cleaning is done during scheduled service / maintenance in accordance with KTM recommendations and instructions.
Due to the anti-hopping feature of the clutch, starting the bike with the gear selector in Neutral position is recommended, especially when the engine is cold.
Push-starting the bike or starting by rolling down a hill in gear and releasing the clutch seems to be next to impossible due to the anti-hopping feature of the clutch.
When removing and reinstalling the fuel tank, ensure that the hydraulic hose between the upper and lower clutch cylinder is routed correctly and not squeezed in between tank and frame.


Original text provided by user 1190Rider, without any warranty, expressed or implied, for completeness, correctness and accuracy; and subject to the disclaimer and further information provided at the public profile of 1190Rider
  1. ^ Link to website of Sigutech UG in Germany (english language):